Buenos Aires is a Million Things

We are back from a whirlwind trip to Latin America's cultural epicenter. My sore legs and blistered feet are proof that we wasted no time trying to see as much as we could. Buenos Aires is very lovable. I went into this little trip a bit skeptical, because I'm a contrarian like that. Everybody ADORES Buenos Aires, and it's the one place that people have been in South America, so I felt like it had enough affection; it didn't need mine. But the truth is, I did kind of really like it. I mean, people of all different stripes love the tourist towns of NYC and London (myself included), and this is just another one to fit into that category.

Buenos Aires is full of different neighborhoods with very different types of dwellers, distinct architecture, and varied points of interest. It’s strange, though, because last night, I asked Matt, “What was your favorite neighborhood in BsAs?” He couldn’t answer; or rather, he didn’t have an answer—and the funny thing is, neither did I. All of the neighborhoods had serious drawbacks. Of course, since time was a factor, we spent our precious few days in those parts of town that seemed to have a lot to offer for travelers in town for only a few days. That said, Palermo is too gentrified and too expat-ish. Recoleta is too rich and snooty. The microcenter is too nuts and chaotic. La Boca is too dangerous (with a section that just sickeningly touristy). Puerto Madero is too tacky and nouveau-riche (anyone want to go to Hooters?!). San Telmo seemed to be trying too hard to be the next Palermo. There were too many seemingly ignored and forgotten about inhabitants of shanty-towns.

So, what did I love about it?! Oh, I guess I loved it holistically. And of course, there were all the little things here and there. The people there seem to be very appreciative of the arts, as am I. In addition, porteños are often warm, friendly, and helpful. The Italian food is amazing; we had the most amazing homemade gnocchi at a tiny little Italian restaurant. The vegetarian options is aplenty. The Subte (short for subterraneo), their subway system, smells exactly like New York’s. There is something about that that warms my heart. There are just endless blocks of five- to eight-story walls of buildings, filled with people living life. I love that. I love city life. This is a place with a lot of city life.

Buenos Aires is a livable place for the non-faint-of-heart. It’s loud, polluted, and busy, but at the same time, the people seem to enjoy life at an often laid-back and friendly pace. I like the contradiction. I’d be happy to be there for several months, to get to know the less tourist trodden neighborhoods and to immerse myself more into all the city has to offer, especially with regards to art. I think I'd fall in love with the place.

Okay, now for loads of pictures.

Casa Rosada (the Presidential Palace). The back of this building is where Evita delivered speeches (and more importantly, of course, where Madonna sang, "Don't Cry for Me, Argentina"):














The tile floor of the main cathedral:













Ornate house of congress:
















La Boca:

































Caminito (the overly-touristy part of La Boca):





























Recoleta (Parisian-style, fancy pants neighborhood):



















A beautiful art-nouveau grave at the very exclusive Recoleta cemetary (where Evita is buried):

In the Recoleta cemetary, as is often the case in Latin America, if you don't pay your rent, your plot is not kept up or at worst, destroyed. There are lots of abandoned, cob-webbed plots. This unkempt one is beautiful, though:

Palermo:

So, this was one of the best desserts I've ever eaten. It's called an alfajor. This type of cookie sandwich is nothing new to me (quite common in these parts) but this specific one was perfection. The two cookies are made with a lot of corn starch, making them strong, dry, and a little crumbly.. In the middle, sticking the two cookies together, is heavenly dulce de leche (caramelized evaporated milk). The d-d-l in this one seemed to contain an almond/orgeat liqueur (making it all the more scrumptious). And to finish it, this alfajor was dipped in lovely bittersweet chocolate and sprinkled with chopped almonds. It was just amazing (especially when paired with my beloved double shot of espresso):
















San Telmo:

Montserrat (the neighborhood in which we stayed):